Rajasthan’s unmanicured wilderness: A zoophilist’s view

February’s cool breeze, exhaustion of a revved-up mind, lull of the long train journey, and I ended up oversleeping. I woke up much later at a wrong station far away from my actual destination, totally naive to handle the situation and an almost empty pocket. Thus, began my Ranthambore escapade. After an anxious return back to Sawai Madhopur, the moment I stepped down at the station, I had an epiphany that my internship itself was going to be quite eventful much like the start of it. I sensed the change in the pace of life, the minute I got off the train. It was a laid back crowded rural setting, an eloquent, fascinating destination that offered a wholesome experience: wildlife, culture, and a soulful connect (if one is receptive).

Ranthambore’s elegance and beauty left me astounded. With its rugged terrain, glorious plateaus and ravines, serene waterholes, the forest had it all. Thorny trees, dry vegetation with its golden-brown shrubs and grasses along with the rocky outcrop added to the diverse visual feast. With the waterbody as the backdrop, a gorgeous sunset behind the hills, water birds flying above the hallowed Ranthambore fort, the sun glittering on the tranquil waters of ‘Padam Talao’ added to the magnificent landscape. The sunlight casting through the dust, pitched the landscape in a brownish-orange vista.

Various landscapes of the Ranthambore Tiger Reserve

I was to intern with a team of four, led by Sarang from the National Centre for Biological Sciences (NCBS) Wildlife Program, who were working on the “diet of Ranthambore’s Tigers”. I was to take over from Vijay, an intern, and finish micro histological analysis of scat (excreta of wild cats) samples. The tigers usually defecate along a commonly used trail and the scat is huge and pointed making it easier to identify, enabling a survey of multiple zones in a day.

I also assisted in the collection of hair samples from various tigers. That was unequivocally my favorite activity during the internship. We trailed certain individuals and observed them. Every time we found a tiger resting on the ground, we waited around patiently for it to move away so that we could collect the hair samples left behind.

During one of the field visits for scat sample

Field assistants play an important role in any research project in forests. Having people who know the study area thoroughly is highly necessary which helps in efficient and faster completion of the project without needless disturbance to wildlife. In Albert Einstein’s words, ‘Only with experience comes knowledge’. When our field assistants Mujahid and Krishna were able to identify the tigers by their names, knew the exact routes to take, were quick to spot and collect the samples; I saw the words come true. Having worked in Ranthambore for more than 10 years, Mujahid and Krishna knew about many generations of tigers that have roamed the Ranthambore terrains. Sarang himself is a highly competent and responsible person. His witty disposition was an added perk. Working under his watchful guidance taught me a lot about the work I was doing and the significance of it.

I visited the forest as often as possible with nervous anticipation to experience my first tiger spotting in the wild. After all, I was at Ranthambore, duh. But nothing could have prepared me for the enthralling encounter. Near a quiet waterhole lay the tigress in her midday siesta and a tiger feasting on a kill. Thus, began the first of many sightings of these majestic beasts, in the days to come. The subsequent sighting was the very next day when I spotted a tiger which I was told was four years old. I noticed the tiger in an agitated and stressed state because of the tourism gypsies surrounding it- around 20 of them breathing down its neck. The tiger had to finally walk through two gypsies to be able to get out. The guides proved their chivalry by taking the tourists as close to the tiger as possible, to give them a “memorable sighting”. It made me think about how I could contribute to emend this line of thinking.

Tourist gypsies and canters parked at close proximity to the tigers

“Our forests offer much more than just beautiful landscapes and wildlife. Each one has a different story to tell” says Raveena Tandon. The stories of Ranthambore are diverse and riveting. One such story is that of the tigress Arrowhead, the queen of lakes. After hearing stories about her and her cubs I wished repeatedly to be able to have a glimpse of her at least once. My internship was coming to an end and I was disheartened that I was yet to spot Arrowhead and her cubs. As if the universe responded, there they were- two graceful female cubs of Arrowhead with glowing amber eyes and sunrise orange bat black stripes. Even as cubs they were awfully majestic and amour-propre.

It was my last day on the field and I was yet to spot arrowhead. With that thought, I moved on trying to absorb the serenity of Ranthambore as much as possible in my memory. And serendipity’s greatest game of all, there she was, her rippling muscles, feline piercing eyes, the distinct arrow-shaped mark on her forehead, licking her paws and going about her routine with the elegance of royalty.

The queen of lakes - Arrowhead

My epiphany did come true in more ways than one. There was something so mesmerizing about that place, the people I met, and the overall experience. “Each species is a masterpiece, a creation assembled with extreme care and genius”- Edward O. Wilson. Ranthambore for sure is the land of tigers, add to that other interesting sightings; the dance of dominance between two Nilgais, a jungle cat gumshoeing in the tall grass, rutting call of a spotted deer, alarm calls from peacocks, sightings of hyenas, foxes, crested serpent eagle, scops owl, mongoose, monitor lizards, and the list is endless. The forest brims with life and it was such an intense experience to watch it all come alive with every dawn and dusk. I wish upon the universe that I am able to give back to nature, even a part of what I get to enjoy.

Numerous other wildlife sightings